COSTA RICA Sets the Latin American standard for sustainable ecotourism, social welfare and civil rights

10 great green and ethical holidays

10 great green and ethical holidays
It’s rare to get all three in one holiday. Now you can, courtesy of the latest hotlist of eco-destinations

Rob Ryan

At one time, choosing a holiday was a no-brainer. The only question anybody
asked was: “Where are you off to?” Now, of course, other concerns whisper in
our ears. How green is the holiday? How ethical?

Is my cash supporting some despotic regime? Will I destroy an area of
rainforest the size of Shropshire every time I take a shower? Is the hotel
stealing the locals’ drinking water for its golf course? In these days of
greenwash and hogwash, it is hard to be certain of the answers.

However, help might be at hand. Every three years, Ethical Traveler (ET), an
American grass-roots amalgam of tour operators, travel agents and
outfitters, publishes a list of the top 10 ethical destinations, with a
focus on developing countries. It analyses more than 70 nations, focusing on
each one’s commitment to the environment, social welfare and human-rights
record.

ET admits that none of its winners is perfect. Bulgaria, for instance, has
huge corruption issues and has suffered a rash of unregulated construction;
ET is reconsidering its inclusion. With the value of oil and mineral
reserves soaring, some countries, such as Argentina, are aggressively
expanding exploration.

As America has found in Alaska, oil and wilderness protection don’t always
mix. South Africa has hardly covered itself in glory with its treatment of
Zimbabwean immigrants.

Bolivia has social issues because of its historical treatment of indigenous
people (although having an Amerindian president has helped). Amnesty
International has highlighted indigenous land rights as a source of unrest
(and sometimes repression) in Chile.

So, a few of 2008’s inclusions may cause jaws to drop, but that doesn’t mean
ET’s effort to highlight excellence isn’t worth making.

Each country also has individual pockets of excellence, where tour operators,
hotel owners and the locals are working together to make sure they don’t
kill what could be the golden goose of ecotourism. So, here are the 10
finalists, along with some ideas for sampling them yourselves in ways that
don’t cost the earth.

Unless stated, packages are per person and include flights

ARGENTINA Ethical Traveler says: “Scores high for its efforts to build
an attractive and sustainable travel and tourism infrastructure.”

See for yourself: the Yacutinga Lodge & Wildlife Nature Reserve is
set in its own 560-hectare nature reserve in northeast Argentina. It has
fantastic jungle right on its doorsteps, day and night excursions through
the undergrowth and English-speaking guides to point out ancient trees,
medicinal plants, orchids and rare birdlife.

There are also river excursions and treetop observation towers where you can
watch parakeets fly at eye level. It uses alternative energy systems and
employs a strict recycling policy. A 10-day trip with Journey Latin America
(020 8747 8315, www.journeylatinamerica.co.uk
), with nights in Buenos Aires and at the Iguaçu Falls, starts at £1,402pp
for land arrangements (some full-board, some B&B), plus about £880pp for
flights.

BOLIVIA Ethical Traveler says:“With 22 national parks (one with 800
species of birds) and great biodiversity, Bolivia is a real treasure.”

See for yourself: Bolivia’s appeal lies in its mix of dramatic scenery,
from high mountains to low deserts, fascinating indigenous culture and a
rich prehistoric past. Rather than stay at a single destination, sample the
Andes, Lake Titicaca, subtropical Santa Cruz and more.

Cox & Kings (020 7873 5000, www.coxandkings.co.uk
) has a 13-night tour from £2,995; its guides receive regular training on
Bolivia’s ecosystems, the flora and fauna, and the importance of recycling
and energy-saving.

BULGARIA Ethical Traveler says: “The first EU country with a
biodiversity strategy... great potential.”

See for yourself: much of the coastline has been ruined by
overdevelopment, so it is rural Bulgaria that is most eco-enticing. There
you will find the Rila range, a spine of mountains that contains more than
200 lakes, a famed monastery and Bulgaria’s highest mountain. Not far away
is the Pirin National Park, a Unesco World Heritage Site,with waterfalls,
caves, 60 alpine peaks and another 70 lakes.

Plus the odd brown bear. Walks Worldwide (01524 242000, www.walksworldwide.com
) has an eight-day guided exploration (for keen hill-walkers) from £775;
Naturetrek (01962 733051, www.naturetrek.co.uk
) has a less strenuous 10-day wildlife tour, Bulgaria in Spring, from
£1,250.

CHILE Ethical Traveler says:“It could become an ecotourism destination
par excellence.”

See for yourself: Patagonia is the place to head for, especially the
Torres del Paine National Park, 1,900 miles south of Santiago by road and a
Unesco biosphere reserve. The dramatic wilderness incorporates lakes,
striking mountains, glaciers and magnificent ice fields to the south. It has
kayaking, climbing, hiking, pumas, condors and, now, a little touch of
luxury on its doorstep.

The new Patagonia Camp is more glamping than roughing it, with sheepskin-lined
yurts, designed by local artists, and imaginative food that’s a cut above
bush tucker. They also serve blue pisco sours that match the turquoise of
the lake the camp overlooks. It’s 100% eco-friendly, with solar power and
top-quality waste management. Tim Best Travel (020 7591 0300, www.timbesttravel.com
) has a 10-day itinerary to Chile, with four nights, full-board, at
Patagonia Camp, for £3,210.

COSTA RICA Ethical Traveler says: “Sets the Latin American standard for
sustainable ecotourism, social welfare and civil rights.”

See for yourself: try the 16-room, family-run Tiskita Jungle Lodge, in
the middle of a private 400-acre rainforest reserve on the south Pacific
coast. It offers guided walks and horseback tours into the rainforest, and
there’s a three-mile stretch of beach below the reserve, the nesting site of
ridley, green and leatherback turtles. Sunvil Latin America (020 8758 4774, www.sunvil.co.uk
) has a 14-night tour of Costa Rica, with three nights, full-board, at the
lodge, from £3,164. The operator contributes $10 per client to the Tiskita
Foundation, a not-for-profit local educational organisation.

CROATIA Ethical Traveler says: “Since its entry into the EU, Croatia
has made a real effort to support sustainable ecotourism ventures.”

See for yourself: one of the most spectacular “green” developments in
the country is the Eco Centre Caput Insulae, at Beli, on the island of Cres.
It’s dedicated to saving the rare whiteheaded griffon vulture, but Goran
Susic, the man behind it, has a touch of the Guillermo del Toro, creating
fantastical stone labyrinths deep in the surrounding forests.

Volunteers (who do everything from trail construction to sheep-shearing) stay
for a minimum of seven days and pay between £80 and £120 a week, depending
on season, plus £32 to cover food. For details, visit www.supovi.hr
or contact the Croatian National Tourist Office (020 8563 7979, www.croatia.hr
). Fly with Ryanair (www.ryanair.com )
to Pula, or with Croatia Airlines (00 385 1 487 2727, www.croatiaairlines.com
) to Pula or Rijeka, then catch a ferry to Cres.

ESTONIA Ethical Traveler says: “One of the world’s best-ranked
countries for protected areas per capita, with the lowest CO2emissions in
Europe.” (Note: since ET’s report was written, Estonia is no
longer considered a “developing country”.)

See for yourself: you can flaunt your green credentials by cycling; the
countryside is good and flat, so it won’t take that much effort. Regent
Holidays (0845 277 3317, www.regent-holidays.co.uk
) has a nine-day trip that starts in lively Tallinn, with its Prague-like
medieval core, then switches to the island of Saaremaa for the pedalling
part. It’s quiet, rural and mostly tourist- and traffic-free. Each night is
spent in a locally run farmhouse, many of which have saunas for treating any
aches and pains. Prices start at £650, B&B, including flights,
bicycle hire, maps and mobile rental.

NAMIBIA Ethical Traveler says:“with abundant wildlife, great national
parks and locally owned and managed conservancies, Namibia is a relatively
undiscovered gem” - although reports that the government is sanctioning
licences to hunt endangered desert elephants bring into question the
Namibia’s ethical integrity.

See for yourself: this is a country with enough space for truly
spectacular landscapes, indigenous people and wildlife to coexist without
too much conflict. Sample all three on a 13-day trip with Explore Worldwide
(0844 499 0901, www.explore.co.uk )
trip.

It takes in the Erongo mountains and Brandberg, with its unique ancient rock
art, spends time with the Himba, the nomads of the Kaokoveld in the remote
north, and concludes at the Etosha Pan, for elephant, wildebeest, eagle,
oryx, lion, hyena and jackal. There’s plenty of off-roading and some basic
camping, but at least you have a hotel and pool bar to look forward to at
Windhoek. You will alsobe supporting the Afri-Leo Foundation, which nurtures
Namibia’s lion population. The trip costs £1,895, full-board.

NICARAGUA Ethical Traveler says: “Fair-trade ventures with local
farmers, impressive civil liberties (except for some issues around gay
rights) and a mushrooming variety of sustainable ecotourism destinations
convinced us to add Nicaragua to the list.”

See for yourself: how about a cup of coffee? How about one grown on
your doorstep? The Nicaragua Lodge and Coffee Plantation - aka Finca
Esperanza Verde Ecolodge - is situated in high, misty, tropical mountains in
the heart of Nicaragua. It offers guided hikes along the nature trails,
bird-watching, night walks, homestays with locals, cooking classes and a
chance to help with the coffee crop.

Solar- and hydroelectric-powered, it sleeps 26 in bunkhouses. Prices start at
£28pp per night, including meals. For more details, call 01273 600030 or
visit www.responsibletravel.com/nicaraguaecolodge
. If you want something more luxurious, the best option is the the splendid
Morgan’s Rock Hacienda & Ecolodge (www.morgansrock.com
). Continental Airlines (0845 607 6760, www.continental.com
) has flights from London to Managua from £589, via Houston. Or try Expedia
(0871 226 0808, www.expedia.co.uk ).

SOUTH AFRICA Ethical Traveler says: “South Africa receives high marks
for supporting eco-friendly, community-based tourism ventures, as well as
for species protection and vigilance against poaching.”

See for yourself:the eight thatched chalets of Djuma Bush Lodge are in
the Sabi Sand reserve, which borders the Kruger. Apart from its excellent
ecological credentials - it has the coveted Fair Trade in Tourism South
Africa kitemark - it’s a fine place to spot the Big Five, as it’s rare to
encounter other safari vehicles.

With Rainbow Tours (020 7226 1004, www.rainbowtours.co.uk
), a sevennight safari at Djuma Bush Lodge starts at £2,445pp, including
meals and game-viewing. Sybarites should upgrade (£390pp extra) to the
nearby Djuma Vuyatela Lodge, the luxury option: eight more chalets built and
operated by the same owners. They can even arrange private silver-service
bush dinners for you (with guards to stop you being on the menu).

With thanks to Jeff Greenwald of Ethical Destinations and Justin Francis,
co-founder of the ethical holiday directory Responsible Travel. For more
details, visit www.ethicaltraveler.org