Resorts go eco-sensitive
Posted By CHRISTINA JONAS, THE CANA
DIAN PRESS
You smell them before you see them, or at least our guide did.
"Oh, wow," exclaimed Erick, a youn
g Costa Rican, motioning us to be quiet.
As we crouched in a thicket, deep within a rainfo
rest, he pointed toward the riverbed. "Peccaries."
We watched in amazement as ei
ght of the wild boar-like creatures clattered noisily across the rocks of a dry riverbed. The wiliest one knew w
e were there and came to investigate.
It was only then that Erick told us t
hat these animals will eat anything, including humans.
"Do we run or make lots of noise?"
I whispered, not taking my eyes off the beast.
"No, climb a tree," he replied.
"But you said earlier not to touch the trees because there could be snakes in them," I retorted, incredulous at the predicament we
found ourselves in
.
"Save your life first, then worry about the snakes."
With that, Erick rose, laughing, an
d the peccary darted for the undergrowth. We learned that in this area there are two species -the friendlier collared peccaries that we had just met, and white-lipped peccaries that are much more aggres
sive.
As we r hike to a picturesque water
fall, we were awed by the beauty of the rainforest. Leaves were as big as elephant ears and trees towered 55 metres. Moss and fern grew thick underfoot, adding their hue to the lush green canvas, while brilliant jewel-coloured dragonflies, multi-coloured butterflies and a dazzling array of flowers added splashes of vibrancy.
It is horrifying to think that only one-quarter of Costa Rica's original forest cover is still standing, and that, despite the steps the country
has taken to conserve nature, about 8,
000 hectares are deforested annually.
Our trip took us to two resorts trying to make a difference.
The first was Playa Nicuesa Rainforest Lodge in the Osa Peninsula, an environmentally sensitive resort set on a 66-hectare private preserve in one of the most remote areas of Costa Rica. To get there you must fly from San Jose to Puerto Jimenez, landing at a small, single-runway airport before boarding a boat for a trip across the Golfo Dulce (sweet gulf).
From the water the area looked desolate, except for a lone pier. That's because the lodge and cabins are set amidst the dense forest, affording guests close-up views of white-faced monkeys, green parakeets and scarlet macaws.
The resort was built by Michael and Donna Butler, former New Yorkers, who wanted to combine conservation with ecotourism, nature, adventure and sports.
"I backpacked a lot around Central America after college and I was amazed by all the activities in this area and yet it was so primitive," Michael said. "It was like escaping to the middle of nowhere."
The couple's vision included a tree house-style lodge, the use of alternative energy, open-air cabins with private outdoor showers, a limited number of guests (22 is the maximum) and the promotion of sustainability and ecotourism, whereby they conserve the environment and improve the well-being of the local people.
In keeping with their efforts, during construction they used recycled materials such as roof tiles made out of plastic banana boxes and posts and beams made out of naturally fallen wood. The gardens and landscaping are pesticide-and herbicide-free and only organic-biodegradable cleaning products are used.
Other conservation efforts include a drying shed that can dry 39 loads of laundry in less than two hours on a sunny day, an endangered tree nursery, recycling and composting programs and solar-powered lights.
Instead of taking a boat to town to purchase fruit and vegetables, they grow their own, including avocados, bananas, grapefruits, oranges, lemons, pumpkins and pineapples.
Lodge meals focus on national and regional cuisine, and often feature fish caught that morning by guests.
The Butlers hope that guests will apply some of Playa Nicuesa's conservation methods upon returning home, and strive to educate everyone about the rainforest, as its destruction will result in the extinction of thousands of species.
Costa Rica, a country roughly the size of Nova Scotia, has five per cent of the world's flora and fauna, so it has a lot to lose. It is home to more than 9,000 species of plants, 200 mammals (half of which are bats), 160 amphibians, 220 reptiles, 850 birds and numerous insects.
It is a land where you are awakened by the loud roars of howler monkeys, surprised by a capuchin peeking in your room and amazed by toucans and scarlet macaws flying free.
Iguanas more than a metre long crash amongst the treetops, armadillos cross your path and, if you are really lucky, you could spy a puma or jaguar. Or if unlucky, a boa constrictor or viper.
The second resort we visited is a pioneer of the ecotourism movement in Costa Rica.
Giovanna Holbrook, matriarch of the family that owns tour operator Holbrook Travel, was visiting the Sarapiqui region in 1984 when she learned of plans to destroy 200 hectares of primary rainforest. She impulsively purchased the property to save the forest, and shortly after built Selva Verde Lodge and Rainforest Reserve, which in addition to accommodations, features a nature reserve with hiking trails, a butterfly garden and an education and conservation resource centre for area residents, travellers and volunteers.
Gabriel González, the manager, said the resort is part of the Certification for Sustainable Tourism (CST) program, which encourages companies to use recycled products, properly dispose and treat waste, install water-and energy-saving devices, conserve and expand Costa Rican forests and implement better information management systems.
Selva Verde continues to improve its carbon footprint.
"Last year we put in 400 energy-efficient light bulbs and installed solar panels which heat the water for 40 of our 45 guest rooms," Gonzalez said. "We also use laundry chemicals that are biodegradable and we have hired a guard to walk around the jungle to discourage hunters."
Selva Verde is also one of the 12 sites on a new Costa Rican bird route that runs along a corridor that has 520 bird species, including the endangered great green macaw. The first of its kind in Central America, the route was created partially with funding from the U. S. Fish and Wildlife Service and is modelled on similar trails in the United States that promote conservation through tourism. Travellers can stay at the resorts on the route or arrange day trips through tour operators.
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